St Davids - Camping And Caravanning Club Site

I nearly set up my tent on a sheep. True story. It was dusk, I was exhausted, and this woolly little fella was so well camouflaged against the grass that I only noticed him when he bleated indignantly at my peg. That’s the moment St Davids – Camping And Caravanning Club Site introduced itself: wild, unexpected, and full of character.

This isn’t your run-of-the-mill, sterile caravan park. It’s perched right on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, which means you can literally hear the Irish Sea from your sleeping bag. The air smells of salt, damp grass, and the faintly rebellious thrill of being that close to a cliff edge.

The site itself is surprisingly small and intimate. No massive entertainment barns, no arcades – just neat, grassy pitches that slope gently towards the horizon. It feels more like a secret garden than a club site, which is ironic, because the Club usually goes for big, organised layouts.

You’ll want to book a coastal pitch (side note: do it, you won’t regret it). Waking up with a direct view of Ramsey Island is the kind of luxury that makes you forget you’re sleeping on a thin inflatable mattress. Just be warned: the wind here has a sense of humour and will attempt to relocate your camping chairs at 3 AM.

Facilities with a Quirky Twist

The shower block is modern and clean, but it’s also a social hub in a weird, British way. You’ll hear people comparing tide times and arguing about the best pasty shop in town. It’s friendly, but bring your own sense of time – the hot water pressure is generous, but inconsistent.

There’s a small shop for essentials, but don’t expect a supermarket. They stock the basics: bread, milk, and emergency chocolate. Honestly, the real essential is a good waterproof jacket, because the weather changes faster than a toddler’s mood. You’ll get four seasons in one afternoon, and that’s part of the charm (or the curse, depending on your tent’s waterproof rating).

Walking and Exploring (Or Just Sitting)

From the site, you can walk into St Davids city centre in about 20 minutes. I say “city” – it’s actually the smallest city in Britain, which is a delightful fact to drop at the pub. The cathedral there is genuinely stunning, and the Bishop’s Palace ruins are perfect for a moody photo session.

If you’re into coastal walks, you’ve hit the jackpot. The path to Whitesands Bay is a must: golden sand, dramatic cliffs, and the kind of cold water that makes you feel alive (and slightly regretful). Just don’t do what I did and attempt it in flip-flops. Your toes will send you a formal complaint.

For the adventurous souls, coasteering or sea kayaking trips launch from nearby. It’s the kind of holiday where you can go from reading a book on a rock to clinging to a wet wetsuit, all in the same hour. No judgement either way – the site welcomes both adrenaline junkies and professional loungers.

The Real Magic: The Light and the Silence

Evenings here are a slow burn. As the sun sets, the sky turns into a palette of bruised purples and soft pinks. I sat in my camping chair, sipping instant coffee that tasted surprisingly good, and watched a seal bob in the bay. No phone signal, no to-do list – just me, the sheep, and the horizon.

That silence is rare, and it’s the site’s hidden superpower. The only sounds are the wind, the waves, and the occasional seagull having a heated debate. It’s the kind of quiet that makes you remember how loud normal life is. And yes, you’ll probably have a deep thought about your existence – but then a gust of wind will steal your hat, and you’ll snap back to reality.

One weird tip: bring earplugs. Not because it’s noisy, but because the silence can be so deep that your own breathing startles you. Or maybe that’s just me. Anyway, trust me on this.

The Verdict (If You Need One)

St Davids – Camping And Caravanning Club Site isn’t for everyone. If you want Wi-Fi, a heated pool, and scheduled bingo, go elsewhere. But if you crave a headland hideaway where nature is the main attraction, this is your spot. It’s raw, it’s beautiful, and it will absolutely test your willingness to live without a kettle that boils in under two minutes.

I left with a sunburn on my left side and windburn on my right. I smelled of campfire smoke and damp wool. And I’m already planning my return – this time, with a better tent and a grudging respect for sheep camouflage. Just watch where you peg that first stake.